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caldbeck-rooftops

The Cumbrian Way passes through the village of Caldbeck and traverses the slopes of two rounded humps that really mark the terminus of the Northern Fells and the start of a Scottish dominated landscape. Faulds Brow gets a mention in Wainwright’s Outlying Fells but fortunately is not of sufficient interest to attract the crowds. The walk itself has some lovely riverside sections at the start and finish, woodland and plenty of open farmland with great views to Skiddaw and Blencathra and north over the Solway Firth. Caldbeck (named after Cold Beck) itself provides an idyllic base for the walk and I thoroughly enjoyed discovering more about the lands nearby – it was virgin territory for me but worthy of further visits.

Recommend: On your return take note of the gorge the limestone gorge known as the Howk and the remains of an old waterwheel at Bobbin Mill.

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the-upper-esk-under-scafell

A day walking in the Upper Esk left me feeling somewajat smug. The weather was hot and sunny and I could imagine the 100′s of walkers sweating there way across the rough summits of the Scafells, Bowfell and the Crinkles whilst I was strolling around at the foot of this giant amphitheatre of mountains refreshing myself periodically in the ice cold waters of the Esk. This really is the heart of the Lake District and the scenery is superb; a typical mountain stream cascades through the rock before it opens in to the giant arena of the Great Moss where the mountains tower above you – a place of romance and tranquility, a place I clearly enjoy being in! It is so tempting to head for the fells whilst staying in Eskdale but I would urge anyone to leave a day for a stroll up the Esk.

Recommend: If anyone is keen on wild camping this is the place to do it

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ullswater-from-birkett-fell

I have always had a special affinity with the wonderfully airy ridge leading to Clough Head from Helvellyn, offering a high level panorama on soft turf and ever changing views. The Dodds (Stybarrow Dood, Watsons Dodd & Great Dodd) straddle the middle section of the ridge; a switchback of rounded summits either overlooking St Johns in the Vale and Thirlmere or back over Ullswater and the fells near Helvellyn. The climb up from Dockray and Dowthwaitehead Farm is simple (better than the steep slopes to the west) and has the dual advantage of views back over the lake at Ullswater and a start close to the one thousand foot contour line. I have included the section on the main ridge on my favourite linear walk which stretches from Kirkstone Pass to Threlkeld – this is really high level walking at its very best.

Recommend: I like to add the extra 2 miles to the circuit which takes in Clough Head and a closer study of the many ridges leading up to Blencathra before dropping down to join the wide bridleway known as the Old Coach Road.

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marina-at-lakeside

Walking to the south of Windermere can be a frustrating business unless you know where to go. Large hotels, marinas and private land encase much of the shoreline and not particularly walker friendly. However there is a a pearl to be found in the form of the little village of Finsthwaite and the walk up to High Dam. Popular in the summer but empty whenever I visit the waters of High Dam used to feed Bobbin Mill in Finsthwaite (now open as a visitor attraction). The lands around Finsthwaite offer an excellent walk; the woodland of Great Knott Wood and Wintering Park particularly attractive as are the views back to Finsthwaite from the south. The circuit of Finsthwaite can be improved further by joining the Nature Walk from the Swan Hotel; alternatively take the Lakeside and Haversthwaite steam railway which stops just upstream from the Swan (timetable here) or walk away from the shore on a path next to the road under Summer House Knott.

Recommend: Of the 3 alternatives for the shoreline section of this walk I prefer walking the shoreline path but beware – just before Lakeside the path disappears and a little bit of fence climbing is needed to escape on to platform.

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planning-permission-above-eskdale

If one in a hundred walkers have trod the slopes of Ulpha Fell and the rocky outcrops of Green Crag, Crook Crag and Dow Crag I would be surprised as this is an area that is constantly bypassed by visitors that do make it to one of the best of all Lake District valleys. The rough ground to the south of the Woolpack Inn is riddled with paths, but sheep tracks not walkers paths, making a visit to the area an exploration and navigation challenge – but all the better for it. I enjoyed scrambling up and over all the craggy outcrops before dropping down on to a slightly more used track which led me past the lonely but lovely tarn of Low Birker. Every time I visit this south west corner of the Lakes it becomes firmly entrenched as my favourite, there is so much to explore and so few people bothering you.

Recommend: I think I say this on every Eskdale walk but come and stay for a weeks walking – there is nothing better

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mist-above-borrowdale

There is a sizeable clutch of beautiful unspoilt land to the north of Kendal and sandwiched between the M6 near Tebay and the A6. It is dominated by the ‘other’ Borrowdale which cuts a deep (but wide) swathe through hills that are more reminiscent of the neighbouring Howgills than the Lakes to the west. I have looked at these fells year in year out as I sped up the M6 but never bothered to stop and investigate them more closely. The other day I did without really knowing what to expect; I walked up the valley from the east expecting to make a long loop to the south but on arrival at the stepping stones near the A6 I changed plans and headed up to the rolling hills to the north which cling closely to the Borrowdale Valley. Good choice, the walking on the ridge is excellent (there is a path) and the views interesting with the M6 to be seen but surprisingly not heard. Try it.

Recommend: A political one – please extend the boundaries of the National Park to include this lovely area, it is well deserving and in review at the present time.

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nannycatch-gate

It was on the last day of my Coast to Coast walk that I discovered this unexpected, but delightful , corner of Cumbria. Although it was tipping it down with rain there looked to be something enchanting about the lands under Flat Fell and Dent Fell, particularly in the deep valley of Nannycatch Gate and I was keen to re-acquaint myself with it. 9 months later I was back on a glorious summer’s day smugly watching the Coast to Coasters slogging along their first day of many. The fox gloves were spectacular near Nannycatch Gate and it is a lovely spot to dwell in – a real dingly dell type of place. The climb up to Dent Fell is steep but the views are excellent, particularly to the east where the Scafells can be seen amongst other western fells. Surprisingly (at least it was to me) Ennerdale cannot be seen from either  Dent or neighbouring Flat Fell which is disappointing and why I believe climbing Flat Fell is a pointless expenditure of energy – the track between the two fells is much more enjoyable way to reach the dell,

Recommend: If you ever do complete the Coast to Coast include this short detour rather than walk along the road.

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top-of-dash-falls

If I could come up with a good walk that fully circles Skiddaw I would have but the lonely walk past Skiddaw House is definitely best done one way so the help of a driver, 2nd car or the bus to Bassenthwaite is unfortunately required. I have always started at Bassenthwaite on this crossing, as much for the views up Dash Falls as anything, but it could be reversed, particularly if staying at Bassenthwaite. I have also added Great Calva to the traditional crossing (accessed comfortably from the top of Dash Falls – 700 feet) as I find the sweeping views to the south via the V shaped Glenderraterra quite special and those in to the Remote North an interesting exercise in Wainwright spotting . The track passes Skiddaw House (more impressive from a distance than close up) which used to be stalkers house but is now a wonderfully placed Youth Hostel – nothing better for the walker, cyclist or explorer but an awfully long walk back from the pub.

Recommend: A further option which includes more high ground but misses out on Dash Falls is to head north west to Great Cockup and cross the low col to the Knott before heading back south to join the original route at Great Calva.

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dalemain-house

The pretty village of Dacre and the historic house of Dalemain lie in an exceptionally quiet corner of the Lakes yet only a few miles off the M6. Like everyone else I either headed towards Keswick or drove past Pooley Bridge to the higher mountains of Ullswater whilst completely neglecting the area between. It was only when Helen demanded a visit to Dalemain House that I was forced to stop and have a look round the area. Revisiting a few weeks ago I linked the triangle of Pooley Bridge, the house at Dalemain with Dacre and spent a thoroughly enjoyable few hours. Dacre itself must be one of the most sort after places to live in Cumbria with its beautiful church and castle (and pub!) with the river Dacre winding its merry way at the foot of the village. The walk passes beside a lovely stretch of river at Pooley Bridge, through the beautiful and colourful grounds of Dalemain House finishing with an option to climb Dunmallard Hill ( no views) or just by enjoying the views down Ullswater. As a shorter walk on easy paths in an unlikely area full of interest this is unsurpassed in the Lake District.

Recommend: Spend some time in Dacre, have a drink at the Horse & Farrier and enjoy this most beautiful of villages.

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looking-down-swindale

Like thousands of other who head for the higher fells of the Lake District I had never walked near Swindale or the large chunk of land which lies between Shap and the V formed to the west between Longsleddale and the head of Haweswater in Mardale. Spied from the M6 it looks fairly uninteresting but it is not as I found on a blustery day in late Spring. I headed on to the wide ridge which runs between Swindale Common and the Old Corpses Road under Sallows – the ridge combining Pennine moorland with interesting Lakeland outcrops of volcanic rock. Haweswater itself never quite comes in to view but there are some good views from Kidsty Pike and round the head of Mardale. The head of Swindale is also a lovely place to be; steep waterfalls (including Hobgrumble Gill) descending both sides of the valley and Swindale Beck meandering though the green fields at their foot.

Recommend: It is easy to extend the walk over Selside and even Branstree and return higher up the Swindale valley.

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