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brunt-knott-farm

I have travelled up the long valley of Longsleddale a number of times but always on the way to climb the twin fells over Sadgill, Tarn Crag and Grey Crag. However this was a waste so I looked at an option to explore the valley more thoroughly which I did on a cloudy day in March. To avoid what could become a repetitive linear walk up and down Longsleddale  I thought I would add a crossing of the ‘Green Quarter’ and a visit to Skeggles Tarn from Kentmere and Staveley in particular. It made a long walk, but an excellent one on generally good paths and full of interest and variety. Longsleddale is totally unlike other Lakeland valleys, quiet and unspoilt with pretty whitewashed farms, whilst the upland crossing is not too strenuous to spoil this extremely satisfying walk.

Recommend: Tackle the walk so you can walk up Longsleddale with its ever improving views.

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• A small fell of great character amongst giants
• Good underfoot walking
• Views up and down the Buttermere valley

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mist-buttermere

At only 1,160 foot Rannerdale Knotts is often ignored , particularly as it sits at the foot of bigger and grander fells and driving along the road it simply merges in to its neighbours. However this belies what is an idyllic 1/2 mile ridge and the hidden depths of Rannerdale valley itself (according to Wainwright the scene of a battle between the Anglos and invading Normans but how they came to be in a side valley of Buttermere is a bit of a mystery). The walking is excellent and the views outstanding both up Buttermere and down the Lorton Valley. I took my time, sat on its small rocky summit, my mind wondering back over 35 years to when my parents regularly took us to a little beach at the foot of Rannerdale Knotts where we swam, canoed and skimmed our way through my childhood. Ahhh…

Recommend: Do take the route that goes through Rannerdale valley and not from Buttermere.

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The twin tarns of Gurnall Dubs and Potter Tarn are the highlights of an attractive foray in to the lower Kentmere valley which separates Staveley from Longsleddale. The higher lands offer an excellent contrast to one of the best 2 miles of the Dales Way. Whilst walking the long distance trail from Ilkley this is when I really felt I had entered the Lake District. The path along the River Kent is a perfect example of riverside, Lakeland slate and attractive trees combining to form a beautiful riverside path which in summer has the added attraction of plenty of wildlife and colour. Birds, otters and wild rabbits are just some of the wildlife that it is possible to see during this time (as Mist, my collie pointed out) wheras higher up the slopes and towards the tarns it is bracken and sheep that dominate this tranquil scene.

Recommend: Have a look at the longer walk passing over the higher ground and in to the valley of Longsleddale.

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whiteless-pike

Forbidding as it looks from the road the steep pull up Whiteside Pike is the best way to enjoy a lovely circuit of Grasmoor (at 2,791 feet the highest fell in the area)  from the Lorton Valley. The ridge from Whiteside to Hopegill Head is one of my Lakeland favourires, exhilerating (particularly in the wind) but perfectly safe, a true reward for the effort to get there. The walk passes through Coledale Hause towards the bulk of Grasmoor and a leisurely ascent with spectacular and ever changing views of Buttermere and the mass of high mountains to the west and south including Great Gable and the Scafells.

Recommend: If you have the energy retrace your steps down Grasmoor and descend via Whiteless Pike via the lovely hidden valley of Rannerdale but it does leave you further from the start point.

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moon-over-pike-o'stickle

Many thousands of walkers trail up the steep eroded path to Stickle Tarn and complete a circuit of Pavey Ark and Harrison Stickle before heading back down the steep eroded path. As worthy a walk as this is much of the appeal of the Langdale Pikes is missed and I prefer a leisurely ascent up Mickleden and approach Pike O’ Stickle from the more remote moors to the west. The paths are so much more pleasant, the scenery ever changing with the full perspective of the Langdale Valley witnessed and enjoyed whilst the dramatic rock scenery is viewed rather than risked; the descent between the underrated Loft Crag and Harrison Stickle offering some dramatic views including into the proper Dungeon Ghyll. My most recent climb was in the snow which adds drama and excitement to the route.

Recommend: There are 2 possible extensions to the basic circuit, my favourite is to add Rossett Pike although the climb up Rossett Gill is tortuous whilst a full circuit of the Langdales can be made by continuing over Pavey Ark and the easy descent to the east.

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keswick-from-dodd

Up to the age of 7 we holidayed in the idyllic little hamlet of Millbeck staying with my gran so any visit to the area known as Underskiddaw brings back plenty of memories. I do remember never quite understanding why Dodd, of all hills, had to have its coat of trees when all else was bare but I would urge anyone on this walk to take to its steep slopes and climb to the top – the views are superb once you break out of the trees with a few hundred feet of climbing to go although be aware that forestry tracks marked on a map are not always there! We had to take to the steep slopes at one point. Walking in the floodplain between Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater is easy and straightforward to follow as a number of people clearly follow the Allerdale Ramble which links Seathwaite in Borrowdale and the Coast. This is a really good wet weather walk when the clouds are over the high summits, full of interest and adventure.

Recommend: Have a look for the house in Millbeck called Rowling End – what a magnificent place, why did the family ever sell it!

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caldbeck-rooftops

The Cumbrian Way passes through the village of Caldbeck and traverses the slopes of two rounded humps that really mark the terminus of the Northern Fells and the start of a Scottish dominated landscape. Faulds Brow gets a mention in Wainwright’s Outlying Fells but fortunately is not of sufficient interest to attract the crowds. The walk itself has some lovely riverside sections at the start and finish, woodland and plenty of open farmland with great views to Skiddaw and Blencathra and north over the Solway Firth. Caldbeck (named after Cold Beck) itself provides an idyllic base for the walk and I thoroughly enjoyed discovering more about the lands nearby – it was virgin territory for me but worthy of further visits.

Recommend: On your return take note of the gorge the limestone gorge known as the Howk and the remains of an old waterwheel at Bobbin Mill.

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walking-above-watendlath_0

The lands between Watendlath and the Borrowdale/Langstrath valleys offer some really good walking terrain, showcased by two lovely sheets of water. Whilst Watendlath tarn is large (for a tarn) with easy access to anyone prepared to make the single track drive to the small hamlet bearing its name, Dock Tarn is shy and retiring and rather lovely. I often forget the tarn is there and come across it by accident whilst heading for the nearby fells of Great Crag and/or High Crag but it is always a pleasant surprise whether lounging by its shores picnicking for the afternoon with the family or fighting my way past in  the teeth of a gale. The pull up from Stonethwaite to Dock Tarn is steep but soon over and thereafter the walking is typically Lakes and highly enjoyable.

Recommend: After Dock Tarn it is worth a small detour over the craggy top of Great Crag which has excellent views.

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views-over-keswick-from-barf

The Bishop of Barf always catches my eye on the road from Keswick to Cockermouth; a splash of white washed rock on steep screes and surrounded by what looks like dense forestry. This is a steep climb but the rewards are many as the path breaks out on to the flatter lands near the summit. The walking between Barf and Lord’s Seat is exceptional, as are the panoramic views with an airy feel uplifting the spirits. The path from Thornthwaite is a good pull and in the wet can be a little unpleasant (particularly when it navigates a large uprooted tree) but I climbed it recently with the children and they thoroughly enjoyed themselves, particularly messing around in Beckstones Gill. The Bishop itself lies off the main track and is not a recommended route of ascent (a grinding scree slope) but the story behind the whitewashed rock is good: apparently in 1783 the Bishop of Derry killed himself and his horse whilst trying to drunkenly ride direct to the summit….mmm.

Recommend: If time permits carry on from Lords Seat in to Whinlatter Forest and drop slowly down to Braithwaite, if they have not altered the forest roads!

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catbells-from-latrigg

It was many years past that the hordes of Victorian tourists rumbled in from Penrith on the old steam trains that largely followed the present route of the A66. Although it was closed finally in 1972 and the tracks taken up what remains between Keswick & Threlkeld is an excellent cycling and walking path, populated by red squirrels and a myriad of bird life. It was many years since I had walked the old railway line and it was a pleasant surprise, the powerful River Greta a constant companion with glimpses through the trees of Skiddaw, Blenacathra and even the Helvellyn range. Doubling back over Latrigg though is all about the pleasant underfoot terrain and outstanding views of Keswick and the Borrowdale Valley – it is simply superb. I dawdled on the summit with memories flooding back of my first (and many peoples first) successful climb aged about 3! It was a real mountain then.

Recommend: Take some time on the railway section reading up on the history of the railway and admiring the deep cuttings through the hard Skiddaw rock

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