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moon-over-pike-o'stickle

Many thousands of walkers trail up to steep eroded path to Stickle Tarn and complete a circuit of Pavey Atk and Harrison Stickle before heading back down the steep eroded path. As worthy a walk as this is much of the appeal of the Langdale Pikes is missed and I prefer a leisurely ascent up Mickleden and approach Pike O’ Stickle from the more remote moors to the west. The paths are so much more pleasant, the scenery ever changing with the full perspective of the Langdale Valley witnessed and enjoyed whilst the dramatic rock scenery is viewed rather than risked; the descent between the underrated Loft Crag and Harrison Stickle offering some dramatic views including in to the proper Dungeon Ghyll. My most recent climb was in the snow which adds drama and excitement to the route.

Recommend: There are 2 possible extensions to the basic circuit, my favourite is to add Rossett Pike although the climb up Rossett Gill is tortuous whilst a full circuit of the Langdales can be made by continuing over Pavey Ark and the easy descent to the east.

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keswick-from-dodd

Up to the age of 7 we holidayed in the idyllic little hamlet of Millbeck staying with my gran so any visit to the area known as Underskiddaw brings back plenty of memories. I do remember never quite understanding why Dodd, of all hills, had to have its coat of trees when all else was bare but I would urge anyone on this walk to take to its steep slopes and climb to the top – the views are superb once you break out of the trees with a few hundred feet of climbing to go although be aware that in forestry tracks marked on a map are not always there! We had to take to the steep slopes at one point. Walking in the floodplain between Bassentwaite and Derwentwater is easy and clear to follow as a number of people clearly follow the Allerdale Ramble which links Seathwaite in Borrowdale and the Coast. This is a really good wet weather walk when the clouds are over the high summits, full of interest and adventure.

Recommend: Have a look for the house in Millbeck called Rowling End – what a magnificent place, why did the family ever sell it!

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caldbeck-rooftops

The Cumbrian Way passes through the village of Caldbeck and traverses the slopes of two rounded humps that really mark the terminus of the Northern Fells and the start of a Scottish dominated landscape. Faulds Brow gets a mention in Wainwright’s Outlying Fells but fortunately is not of sufficient interest to attract the crowds. The walk itself has some lovely riverside sections at the start and finish, woodland and plenty of open farmland with great views to Skiddaw and Blencathra and north over the Solway Firth. Caldbeck (named after Cold Beck) itself provides an idyllic base for the walk and I thoroughly enjoyed discovering more about the lands nearby – it was virgin territory for me but worthy of further visits.

Recommend: On your return take note of the gorge the limestone gorge known as the Howk and the remains of an old waterwheel at Bobbin Mill.

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walking-above-watendlath_0

The lands between Watendlath and the Borrowdale/Langstrath valleys offers some really good walking terrain, showcased by two lovely sheets of water. Whilst Watendlath tarn is large (for a tarn) with easy access to anyone prepared to make the single track drive to the small hamlet bearing its name, Dock Tarn is shy and retiring and rather lovely. I often forget the tarn is there and come across it by accident whilst heading for the nearby fells of Great Crag and/or High Crag but it is always a pleasant surprise whether lounging by its shores picnicking for the afternoon with the family or fighting my way past in to the teeth of a gale. The pull up from Stonethwaite to Dock Tarn is steep nut soon over and thereafter the walking is typically Lakes and highly enjoyable

Recommend: After Dock Tarn it is worth a small detour over the craggy top of Great Crag which has excellent views

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views-over-keswick-from-barf

The Bishop of Barf always catches my eye on the road from Keswick to Cockermouth; a splash of white washed rock on steep screes and surrounded by what looks like dense forestry. This is a steep climb but the rewards are many as the path breaks out on to the flatter lands near the summit. The walking between Barf and Lord’s Seat is exceptional, as are the panoramic views with an airy feel uplifting the spirits. The path from Thornthwaite is a good pull and in the wet can be a little unpleasant (particularly when it navigates a large uprooted tree) but I climbed it recently with the children and they thoroughly enjoyed themselves, particularly messing around in Beckstones Gill. The Bishop itself lies off the main track and is not a recommended route of ascent (a grinding scree slope) but the story behind the whitewashed rock is good: apparently in 1783 the Bishop of Derry killed himself and his horse whilst trying to drunkenly ride direct to the summit….mmm.

Recommend: If time permits carry on from Lords Seat in to Whinlatter Forest and drop slowly down to Braithwaite, if they have not altered the forest roads!

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catbells-from-latrigg

It was many years past that the hordes of Victorian tourists rumbled in from Penrith on the old steam trains that largely followed the present route of the A66. Although it was closed finally in 1972 and the tracks taken up what remains between Keswick & Threlkeld is an excellent cycling and walking path, populated by red squirrels and a myriad of bird life. It was many years since I had walked the old railway line and it was a pleasant surprise, the powerful River Greta a constant companion with glimpses through the trees of Skiddaw, Blenacathra and even the Helvellyn range. Doubling back over Latrigg though is all about the pleasant underfoot terrain and outstanding views of Keswick and the Borrowdale Valley – it is simply superb. I dawdled on the summit with memories flooding back of my first (and many peoples first) successful climb aged about 3! It was a real mountain then.

Recommend: Take some time on the railway section reading up on the history of the railway and admiring the deep cuttings through the hard Skiddaw rock

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mist-clears-below-scafell

The circuit of Scafell Pike and Scafell is a well deserved classic particularly if the ascent is via Lingmell and not the eroded path where the hordes completing the National 3 Peaks fight up. The highest point of England (3210′) is eventually reached but it is on the crossing to Scafell that the walk comes in to its own. The col at Mickledore is a place of legend and requires sensible decision making. There are 3 options here – my preferred option is Lords Rake, a 200foot drop to the north side finds an opening in to a shattered rake of loose rock which bends steeply through the Scafell rock face at a point just before the ‘unstable’ pinnacle. I did Broad Stand (the direct and quickest route) when I was young but the 12 foot slab scares me a little now and I would avoid it, particularly in the wet or on a descent. The 3rd option is a 500 foot descent on the southernside of Scafell to Foxes Tarn – not particularly appealling, a bit dull but safe. However it is spectacular stuff around the Scafells and most seem to complete the crossing safely even if they do have a story to tell!

Recommend: Take the track up the shoulder of Lingmell rather than the more obvious one up the Gill

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shores-of-rydal-water

This exceptionally pretty walk around the tranquil waters of Rydal Water is the inspiration for so much of the poetry of William Wordsworth and the writings in the diary of his sister Dorothy. It is very easy to see why – Rydal Water itself is tightly enclosed between the steep slopes of Loughrigg Fell and the  Fairfield horseshoe creating the landscape of trees, lake and mountain which so inspired them. Most of the walk is through lovely woodland which clings tightly to the shores of the lake but not thick enough to cut off the views which so characterise the walk. There are some alternatives on the route, particularly on the far side of Rydal Water but it is best to keep to the waters edge where possible with the only exception being a visit to Rydal Cave, a large man made amphitheatre of slate complete with resident goldfish!

Recommend: Add in a trip to the shores of Grasmere and the popular pebble beach at its southern end.

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sharp-edge-winding-to-foule-crag

I believe that the scramble up Sharp Edge on Blencathra is probably as much fun as you can have on any Lake District fell. Sharp Edge is clearly seen all the way from the drive on the A66 to the perfect little Scales Tarn where the ridge starts. The only problem I have with the ridge is that it is too short and emerging on to the saddle brings a sense of disappointment that that the fun is over.  In fact the ridge can be divided in to two; along the almost horizontal crest (a path to the right avoids some but not all the difficulties – best stick to the crest) before the steep slabs of Foule Crag (pick your route) complete the route. Away from the ridge the climb from Scales to Scales Tarn is thoroughly enjoyable with the return on the other side of the Tran, along Scales Fell even better. The views on this east ridge are absolutely superb. Pick a  clear day

Recommend: Being on the smoother rocks of the Skiddaw Slates means this is considerably trickier in the wet and in particular if you use the ridge on the way down. Best fun is going up the ridge in dry conditions.

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the-upper-esk-under-scafell

A day walking in the Upper Esk left me feeling somewajat smug. The weather was hot and sunny and I could imagine the 100′s of walkers sweating there way across the rough summits of the Scafells, Bowfell and the Crinkles whilst I was strolling around at the foot of this giant amphitheatre of mountains refreshing myself periodically in the ice cold waters of the Esk. This really is the heart of the Lake District and the scenery is superb; a typical mountain stream cascades through the rock before it opens in to the giant arena of the Great Moss where the mountains tower above you – a place of romance and tranquility, a place I clearly enjoy being in! It is so tempting to head for the fells whilst staying in Eskdale but I would urge anyone to leave a day for a stroll up the Esk.

Recommend: If anyone is keen on wild camping this is the place to do it

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