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hay-meadows-at-askrigg

I found that there are 3 distinct stages to this walk from Askrigg. Climbing through the woods next to Mill Gill brought us to a lovely picnic spot above Mill Gill Force and two distinctive waterfalls but it is the pretty woodland which I found particularly impressive. It is a place to explore the various paths and options which head off in to the woods with their knarled trees, ideal for an 11 year old and a 6 year old to have a play in. After we had nearly drowned Mist in one of the deeper pools we suddenly emerged at the top of Straights Lane and the excellent views down Wensleydale were spread before us. It is a relaxing stroll back to the village and the third stage of the walk – exploring pretty Askrigg! Askrigg was made famous as the setting for Darrowby and the house used in All Creatures Great and Small but aside from this it is a lovely village, with a splendid church and cobbled side streets where once hand knotters and clock makers plied their trade.

Recommend: A lovely walk all year the splendid Hay Meadows mean this walk is best done late May and June.

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on-the-gallops-at-middleham

On any walk from Middleham it is impossible to avoid two things. The first is the splendid castle which dominates this most attractive of villages and was a firm favourite of Richard III whilst the second is horses – racehorses by the dozen. Racehorse training in Middleham has been around for 200 years and there are still 15 firmly established, and successful, training stables in the village. As I headed out over the gallops with its splendid views over Wensleydale the poor dog did not know quite what to do with thoroughbreds coming at her from all angles. After a mile and a half the walk leaves the high ground and enters Tupgill Park, the home of the Forbidden Corner (a 4 acre 20th century popular tourist attraction). Fortunately it was closed as I headed for the river and the beautiful cluster of houses, church and ruined abbey of Coverham. The woods banking the River Cover are another lovely spot to dawdle before heading back to Middleham. I am not sure there is any walk I have completed which packs so much in to such a relatively small area.

Recommend: The gates outside Coverham Abbey were locked but there appears to be no objection for walkers to skirt the gates on the wall. I checked with some locals and they said the locked gates were to stop motorists not walkers.

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easby-abbey

The ruins of Easby Abbey make a lovely afternoon stroll from Richmond following both banks of the River Swale. The abbey is apparently Premonstratensian (careful how it is spelt) which is derived from a French Catholic order of the 12th century but it was good old English soldiers who largely destroyed it during their stay on route to the Battle of Neville’s Cross in 1346. Unlike other abbeys it was left to fall in to disrepair and now has little familiarity with the impressive working abbey it once was. However I coupled the visit to the abbey ruins with a visit to the still very impressive Richmond Castle which is one of the best examples of a Norman fort in England today. The stretch of river bank linking the two offers a very easy stroll with the powerful River Swale a deep brown colour, derived from the peat and moors further up the dale. The power of the river was such that strenuous efforts had to be made to ensure Easby Abbey did not drop in to the river a few tears ago – have a look at how it has cut in to the bank near the abbey ruins!

Recommend: Wander up from the abbey and take a look at the little group of buildings at Easby itself.

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forestry-above-west-burton

Many certainly would agree that West Burton, with its large village green and quaint buildings, is the most attractive village in the Yorkshire Dales. It is certainly unspoilt, in the main because there is no through road beyond West Burton; in effect if you are not visiting the village you will not be there. It is possible to walk down to Aysgarth Falls from here but I prefer a walk the other way, up the Walden Valley returning via the beck. This is unspoilt land, except by the Forestry Commission who have recently cut down the Burton Pasture leaving a fairly desolate landscape, and it is quiett with few exploring this dead end valley. However the walk along Walden Beck is lovely and the views from the higher land to the upper reaches of the dale and back down towards Castle Bolton superb. I enjoyed the riverside section of the walk with the path raised about 50 feet from the river itself thereby giving views both down on to the water and across to the wild moorlands of Harland Hil and the Height of Hazely.

Recommend: Although not strictly on the walk, 100 yards or so from the village square are the impressive Cauldron Falls

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middle-falls-aysgarth-falls

Aysgarth Falls is an impressive stretch of the River Ure in mid Wensleydale. The Ure passes over 3 ‘ledges’ and certainly, when I took the walk after a period of heavy rain, Aysgarth Falls looks mighty impressive and very powerful. Powerful water is great to look at, almost mesmeric, and I believe this is the best place in the Yorkshire Dales to enjoy this. Viewing platforms are ok but I enjoy getting as close to the water as possible and there is a stretch of rock below the lower falls where anyone can sit right on the water’s edge. The famous scene in Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves was filmed on the upper falls which lie just upstream of the road bridge and it is worth paying the nominal, voluntary fee to get close to where the action takes place. The National Park have sympathetically landscaped the area by the falls with a wide path leading through the attractive woods (suitable for wheelchair/pushchair users) above the falls and there is still a sense of wildness about the area which has attracted so much attention over the yeas. This is also James Herriot country and I extended my walk above the river and through the village of Carperby (where the Herriot’s honeymooned) adding a few miles but considerable interest to the walk. The views of Castle Bolton may well entice walkers to go that extra (“) miles but I have preferred to keep the castle separate from Aysgarth Falls. The castle Bolton walk is referenced Dxxx.

Recommend: Aysgarth Falls is best visited after rains to enjoy it to the full but a summer’s day loitering on the banks is still worthwhile.

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exploring-how-stean-gorge

How Stean Gorge is a dramatic limestone gorge which cuts through the gill in the higher end of Nidderdale. The full gorge is no more than 300 yards from end to end and include an impressive 100 yard tunnel cave. This is pitch black so bring a torch as I would not fancy tackling the low ceiling and uneven, wet floor without one. There is a lot of excellent group tuition and gorge walking advertised but sadly the prices that are charged for the humble walker or more likely the family (£5 or £16) is too much for what is there – it is not necessary, it will put people off going, particularly in these times and they will end up cutting their nose…. The best way to make use of your financial output is to spend time in the gorge on a nice summer’s day – there is plenty of scrambling and small beaches and paddling areas for those so inclined. Away from the gorge the countryside is excellent for the walker particularly beyond the village of Stean where the land opens out. This is the best part of the Nidderdale Way with wide ranging views and some dramatic scenery; my favourite site though is the lovely profile of Middlesmoor with the late light shining on the buildings and the impressive middle aged church.

Recommend: The walk that is described does not visit Middlesmoor, it is worth doing so whether by foot or by car, it is a lovely valley end village.

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village-green-slaidburn

Slaidburn is the centre of tourism in the Forest of Bowland, which actually means very little as this is a quiet area which is still unspoilt by the lesser unsavoury elements of the tourist industry. It is a pretty place with a village green, superb church of St Andrew’s, the Hark to Bounty pub all set on the embryonic River Hodder and nearby Stock’s Reservoir. South of Slaidburn there is some excellent moorland walking and Stock’s and Gisburn Forest are nearby but I have chosen a pleasant walk up Croasdale Brook through the small woods to the north of the village. The walk passes the Myttons Craft Centre (which seemed closed) before crossing fields to the pretty woods around Croasdale House. The track then turns back on itself and in general follows the line of the river but takes to the land higher on the east side. The views get better with Stocks glimpsed and Gisburn Forest spotted whilst to the west the great moorlands circling the Trough of Bowland can be seen to good effect. The final views over Slaidburn are excellent and the village does offer a pleasant conclusion to this walk through a largely forgotten and certainly rarely visited, area.

Recommend: There is some more attractive woodland 1/2 a mile further north near the farmstead of Clough.

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views-over-semer-water

I was totally impressed by Semer Water and how the largest natural Lake in the Yorkshire Dales is being managed. The balance between conservation, handled well by the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust, and recreation is spot on. I was delighted to see a group of school children canoeing the lake under the charge of an outdoor centre and a well laid out path passing next to the Lake; there is little worse when conservation groups become high handed and start banning people from great swarths of attractive countryside. Semer Water is hidden up a side  valley of Wensleydale and rarely visited. I only managed the traditional low level circuit but really there appears a lovely detour over the higher ridge to he west of the road which only adds an extra mile and a bit of height. The whole area oozes peace and tranquillity and  backs up my view that the best of the Dales is found in these side valleys – ‘the undiscovered Yorkshire Dales’ – now that is a thought!

Recommend: Tempting as it is to say a pint of Semer Water (it really exists, a pale bitter), this is a walking site and I certainly believe the whole valley deserves more time to explore than a quick water round the lake.

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fountains-abbey-from-the-grounds

Nothing rugged about Fountains Abbey or Studley Park just a dramatically preserved abbey set next to a beautiful country park. The walk through the ancient ruins conjures up images over an 800 year period; apparently the abbey was founded by just 13 wandering monks before becoming one of the richest monasteries in the land – Henry VIII must have been extremely grateful! The great wealth was generated by the lay helpers at the abbey, not the Cistercian monks who were obliged to spend the majority of time at prayer. Following the Dissolution in 1538 the monastery fell in to disrepair but two centuries later the Royal estate of Studley Park was reunited with that of the abbey and the picturesque Water Gardens were built. The Victorians loved it here, spending hours wandering the grounds and picnicking with the deer but it was not until 1983 that the site became a World Heritage Site. The National Trust now own and manage the land with great success, I found that I could wander freely and explore intimately the entire area without any sense that I should not…something they do not always achieve. The walk is 3 miles long and takes in the Abbey, the Water Gardens and the deer park but I would suggest following in the footsteps of Anne Boleyn on the higher ground of the Water Garden for the surprising follies and wonderful views.

Recommend: Take time to visit the mill, the oldest building on site but now a great example of a working watermill

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skipton-castle-from-the-north

I always like castles to have a proper history; at some stage they should have been beseiged, partly destroyed and have commanding views of any unwanted armies. Skipton Castle achieves this, with its rich history including being the last Royalist stronghold in the north and beating off a variety of Scottish raids, but also occupies a commanding position within the gateway to the north. The moat can be clearly seen behind the castle where the walls look impregnable whilst Skipton Woods was used for many centuries to collect fuel, provide building materials and the animals provided more than sufficient food for the inhabitants. The woods are now leased to the Woodland Trust and are mainly made up of a large variety of Ash trees and some birch all which are wrapped round Eller Beck. The walk follows the shores of the canal in its initial stages before carrying on next to the banks of the river, all on an excellent path suitable for push chairs or wheel chairs but from the bypass the walk is steeper and finally crosses some open fields with great views over the town of Skipton.

Recommend: Explore the areas near the canal behind the main street on Skipton.

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