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upper-wharfedale

The best part of the Dales Way is when it reaches Upper Wharfedale and the hills on either side start to close in adding an element of remoteness that a long distance walk should bring. This shorter walk visits some of the lesser settlements from Kettlewell such as Cray, Hubberholme and Buckden and is much the better for it, certainly Hubberholme lost in time but with an attractive riverside pub to enjoy. The walking is always easy and in the main on good paths (the quieter lanes are sometimes visited) with the River Wharfe an almost constant companion, a proper mountain river at this point, fast flowing at times but forming eddies and deep pools at others. As the Wharfe forks towards Cray the river (not the Wharfe at this stage, the Cray Beck) forms some wonderful little waterfalls and pools and is well worth exploring.

Recommend: Keep eyes peeled for the ever increasing otter population whilst the dippers will be more obvious.

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enjoying-the-nidderdale-way

Downstream from Pateley Bridge walking along the River Nidd is a real pleasure – the path is really good and sticks to the river like glue. However after 2 and a half miles I had had enough and headed through Smelterhouses for the lovely woodland of Fell Beck. This is one of the most lovely areas of deciduous woodland in the Dales – I included it on the walk to Brimham Rocks which is barely 1 mile away . At Smelterhouses the walk joins the Nidderdale Way which is one of the best of the many long distance paths which criss cross the Dales and is followed all the way back to Pateley Bridge. The way follows a high line when it leaves the woods, along quiet lanes and with some excellent views over Nidderdale and the surrounding countryside.  The villages of Glasshouses, Blazefield and little Smelterhouses add even more variety to what is a highly enjoyable exploration of lower Nidderdale, a very underrated area.

Recommend: Spend some time exploring the villages on the walk, particularly Yorkshire Country Wines in Glasshouses Mill.

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jervaulx-abbey

A lovely stretch of riverside, an abbey, an impressive old hall, a pearl of a village and some lovely walking across the Jervaulx Abbey estate and Danby Hall makes this one of the best lowland walks in the Yorkshire Dales. Finishing (or starting) with a visit to the Jervaulx Abbey tea room and stopping off for a quick one at the Coverbridge Inn adds to the enjoyment. I always get pleasure from  wandering through the ruins of old abbeys and this was no exception; the beautiful situation adding to a tangible sense of real history. The abbey was built by the Cistercians in 1156 and was a real treasure trove until Henry V111 experienced certain marital problems in the 16th century and it thereafter fell in to disrepair. The grounds roll pleasantly to the river (as do those on the other side at Danby Hall) and are great to walk through but I must admit that my favourite stretch of the walk passes next to the river from the Coverbridge Inn to the abbey. The path here is excellent and religiously follows the river bank whilst it leaves the river on the east side.

Recommend: Having done the walk in a clockwise direction I would recommend the anticlockwise circuit; the abbey should be seen initially, the riverside walk is a great way to finish and the inn is more strategically placed!

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hay-meadows-at-askrigg

I found that there are 3 distinct stages to this walk from Askrigg. Climbing through the woods next to Mill Gill brought us to a lovely picnic spot above Mill Gill Force and two distinctive waterfalls but it is the pretty woodland which I found particularly impressive. It is a place to explore the various paths and options which head off in to the woods with their knarled trees, ideal for an 11 year old and a 6 year old to have a play in. After we had nearly drowned Mist in one of the deeper pools we suddenly emerged at the top of Straights Lane and the excellent views down Wensleydale were spread before us. It is a relaxing stroll back to the village and the third stage of the walk – exploring pretty Askrigg! Askrigg was made famous as the setting for Darrowby and the house used in All Creatures Great and Small but aside from this it is a lovely village, with a splendid church and cobbled side streets where once hand knotters and clock makers plied their trade.

Recommend: A lovely walk all year the splendid Hay Meadows mean this walk is best done late May and June.

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bridge-at-sawley

I headed off on this circular walk from Sawley to Gisburn taking in the village of Bolton by Bowland on a warm, sultry day. The walking is easy but the circuit is quite long (10 miles) with no options to shorten it (unless you are prepared to swim the Ribble) However it is full of interest – I particularly enjoyed the section along the Ribble Way to the south of the river as strange encounters with stone circles, something sinister in the woods, over friendly cows and CCTV enlivened an already pleasant route. The return route is through pleasant farmland and beside a tributary to the Ribble (Skirden Beck) with good view across Pendle Hill. Sawley itself will dominate memories of the walk, with a visit to the remains of the Cistercian Abbey a must, with its spectacular bridge and views typical of the pretty Ribble villages that dominate the area.

Recommend: There is an option from Fooden Hall Farm via Bolton Hall which avoids Bolton by Bowland saving a mile and a half – it is not worth it.

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easby-abbey

The ruins of Easby Abbey make a lovely afternoon stroll from Richmond following both banks of the River Swale. The abbey is apparently Premonstratensian (careful how it is spelt) which is derived from a French Catholic order of the 12th century but it was good old English soldiers who largely destroyed it during their stay on route to the Battle of Neville’s Cross in 1346. Unlike other abbeys it was left to fall in to disrepair and now has little familiarity with the impressive working abbey it once was. However I coupled the visit to the abbey ruins with a visit to the still very impressive Richmond Castle which is one of the best examples of a Norman fort in England today. The stretch of river bank linking the two offers a very easy stroll with the powerful River Swale a deep brown colour, derived from the peat and moors further up the dale. The power of the river was such that strenuous efforts had to be made to ensure Easby Abbey did not drop in to the river a few tears ago – have a look at how it has cut in to the bank near the abbey ruins!

Recommend: Wander up from the abbey and take a look at the little group of buildings at Easby itself.

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the-banks-of-the-river-lune

Being honest I knew very little about the River Lune aside from passing over it on the A65 and spending time admiring it from the butty van at Kirkby Lonsdale. The Lune Vallley though is lovely, at least near Kirkby Lonsdale. The river is wide and not fast flowing but it is peaceful and relaxing to walk beside. Unusually the banks, if not taken by fishermen, are easily accessible and safe. Being on the edge of the Dales the panorama is superb as the hills from Barbondale to Ingleborough are presented in a linear form , similar indeed to the Cairngorms when passing up the A9. However the jewel on the walk is the lovely, completely unspoilt, village of Whittington complete with spectacular  church, pub and quaint, quiet streets. The village is a splendid example of somewhere that is off any through road in an unspoilt but attractive rural area – almost going back in time. I like Kirkby Lonsdale as well, have a wander through its narrow streets after the walk….or stay there!

Recommend: I would always recommend a weekend break in Kirkby Lonsdale – ignore the general pr about being twixt Dales and Lakes and just enjoy the Lune valley for what it is.

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above-the-swale-near-reeth

I came across this lovely stretch of the River Swale near Reeth whilst doing the Coast to Coast. My route was taking me through Swaledale (as opposed to the fells above) partly because I knew the hills but had little knowledge of the riverside route. Plenty of walkers head off from the swing bridge below Reeth so I followed them! The river banks here are delightful, unspoilt with a great riverside path winding its way through some natural woodland and some open stretches of easy farmland. A few weeks later I repeated this stretch of the River Swale but doubled back from the bridge at Low Whita and headed back on the southern bank. The southern bank is not followed as closely (often higher where the river cuts more deeply in to the hillside) but has the advantage of some lovely views over Healaugh and later Reeth itself. For me Swaledale comes alive at Reeth with the land to the west rugged and full of interest with the views on a par with anything else in the Yorkshire Dales. Walking from Reeth will keep anyone busy for a number of days, it is an ideal spot.

Recommend: Whilst in Reeth take a drive (or walk) up Arkengarthdale, it is a largely unspoilt and very attractive Yorkshire Dales valley.

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middle-falls-aysgarth-falls

Aysgarth Falls is an impressive stretch of the River Ure in mid Wensleydale. The Ure passes over 3 ‘ledges’ and certainly, when I took the walk after a period of heavy rain, Aysgarth Falls looks mighty impressive and very powerful. Powerful water is great to look at, almost mesmeric, and I believe this is the best place in the Yorkshire Dales to enjoy this. Viewing platforms are ok but I enjoy getting as close to the water as possible and there is a stretch of rock below the lower falls where anyone can sit right on the water’s edge. The famous scene in Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves was filmed on the upper falls which lie just upstream of the road bridge and it is worth paying the nominal, voluntary fee to get close to where the action takes place. The National Park have sympathetically landscaped the area by the falls with a wide path leading through the attractive woods (suitable for wheelchair/pushchair users) above the falls and there is still a sense of wildness about the area which has attracted so much attention over the yeas. This is also James Herriot country and I extended my walk above the river and through the village of Carperby (where the Herriot’s honeymooned) adding a few miles but considerable interest to the walk. The views of Castle Bolton may well entice walkers to go that extra 2 miles but I have preferred to keep the castle separate from Aysgarth Falls. The castle Bolton walk can be found by clicking here.

Recommend: Aysgarth Falls is best visited after rains to enjoy it to the full but a summer’s day loitering on the banks is still worthwhile.

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stonyhurst-college

JRR Tolkein stayed at and visited Stonyhurst College regularly as he was researching and writing the epic trilogy of the Lord of the Rings. As a visiting professor he gained access to the college and the grounds on frequent visits whilst during and after the 2nd World War he stayed in a guest house whilst visiting his son. The college towers, the mythology that surrounds nearby Pendle Hill and the woods and rivers of the grounds undoubtedly supplied much of the inspiration behind Middle Earth and I picked up the leaflet for the Tolkein Trail to see if I could get some feeling as to how he was thinking as he wondered the area. Even as a great fan I could not really picture the inspirational scenes of the book aside from the long loop of the Ribble which could easily have been the inspiration behind the Brandybuck when Frodo and the gang were leaping to escape the Ringwraithes. The walk is a heritage trail and passes close by the college before heading off to the River Hodder and later the Ribble itself. Cromwell’s Bridge, Winkley Hall, Hacking Hall and the aqueduct which passes over the Ribble just outside Hurst Green are passed at regular intervals and enliven this pleasant and interesting 1/2 day walk.

Recommend: If you never have, read Lord of the Rings.

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