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shooting-lodge-in-the-upper-nidd

I set off with Mist on this truly excellent walk near Masham which starts via the twin reservoirs of Leighton and Roundhill before taking to the higher moors. The walking on the high plateau is superb with wide ranging views over the Vale of York but more particularly Upper Nidderdale. The dull weather soon gave way to early spring sunshine and with the grouse in full voice the miles just drifted past with the only distractions being a series of shooting lodges and old barns. The classical U shaped valley of Upper Nidderdale gradually revealed itself in the brightening conditions with Scar House Reservoir and Great Whernside particularly prominent whilst the final views over Leighton towards Masham were an absolute delight…as was this walk as a whole.

Recommend: Despite this being Access Land I could see no point whatsoever in leaving the main landrover tracks and take on the ferocious looking heather.

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caldbergh-moor

One of the great pleasures in walking the Yorkshire Dales is crossing the vast moors between the dales, rarely trodden and often remote, but then dropping down in to a valley almost untouched by the modern world. This walk from the lower reaches of Coverdale and visiting Colsterdale is one such walk. I headed off with Mist and never saw a soul for 12 miles, although to be fair an error in navigation did put me on a moor that no self respecting person (or dog) should be on. Certainly the return trip over Masham Moor and the ‘Haws’ is not to be undertaken lightly with some of the paths marked intermittent at best. West Scrafton and Caldbergh are idyllic dales villages and a joy to walk through as is the quiet valley of Colsterdale, isolated farms and shooting huts the only buildings that are passed.

Recommend: The route offers two options at the top of Colsterdale, I took the longer detour towards South Haw for the views of Nidderdale (although the reservoirs are agonisingly out of sight) – the path that cuts south after Dawson House I cannot vouch for but it starts well enough.

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winder-from-dales-way

One of the best sections of the Dales Way passes between Sedbergh and Dent and this drove me to look at a walk combining both places. Clearly the Dales Way marks one direction and is an excellent lowland track through the attractive setting of lower Dentdale but picking an alternative route for the other way is more interesting. My favourite alternative to the Dales Way is in fact the bridleway (little more than a path) leading over the moors of Frostrow and Long Moor before dropping down to the river Dee 1/2 a mile from Dent itself. Whilst the Dales Way and riverside section of the walk can be busy it is rare to see anyone on the higher moors so the views can be fully enjoyed in peace and at your leisure. They are good as well!

Recommend: When you have 5 or 6 days spare the Dales Way which runs from Ilkley to Kendal and runs through the heart of the Dales is an excellent long distance walk

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twisleton-scar

Easy walking, fantastic limestone pavements and far reaching views over two of the Yorkshire Dales big 3 characterise this walk above Twisleton Scars. Whernside and Ingleborough were ever present as myself and Mist stretched our legs on the large flat plateau that separates the two peaks, a plateau offering some of the most impressive examples of limestone scenery in the country. At Ewes Top an array of cairns marked a change of direction from me – I always prefer keeping to the high ground so I decided to follow the sheep tracks that pass along the top of Twisleton Scars rather than the joining the Ingleton Falls walk and following it back to Chapel le Dale at the foot of the scars. The walking and views of the scars is superb from above and depending how brave you are closer investigation can be made using some of more adventurous sheep tracks

Recommend: This is a much better walk from Chapel-le -Dale than Ingleton if only because it involves a closer inspection of this attractive hamlet

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reinsber-scar

There is something immensely satisfying about walking on the limestone of the southern Dales. I have probably included a disproportionate number of walks in the Settle region just for this reason. The limestone scars and pavements in the tract of land between Austwick and Stainforth harbours some of its best examples; the light grey rock catching the sunlight wonderfully well on a good day creating a brilliant white appearance. Furthermore the physical walking on limestone is also a pleasure, broad short grass paths pepper the area making the miles simply disappear – I remarked to Helen that it was a walk that could almost be done with bare feet (sheep poo excepted). Helen really chose this walk as she was keen to sample the pleasures of the tea room at Feizor so I looked to construct a walk with Feizor as the base. The views over to Stainforth and Pen y Ghent are excellent completing a very fitting finale to the 100th walk that I have described in the Yorkshire Dales.

Recommend:

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bordley-from-the-road

The land between Malham and Grassington at Malham Moor is a fascinating mix of limestone, rough moorland and the pretty and rarely visited valley of Winterburn, complete with a small reservoir. At the head of Winterburn is the small hamlet of Bordley, surely one of the most inaccessible hamlets in England – I watched the postman trying to get there and ruin his van in the process. A rough spot to live! Bordley forms the far point of the 7 and a half mile walk I particularly enjoy in the area. After a walk through farmland the track soon rises to Threshfield Moor and a long line of shooting butts but the scenery is completely different on the return as Malham Moor Lane passes through some classic limestone scenery and ancient iron age settlements.

Recommend: It is possible to extend the walk quite easily by joining Mastiles Lane above Bordley and returning from Kilnsey Crag along the back road. The ancient Roman Road of Mastiles Lane is easy walking through outstanding limestone scenery but the return from Kilnsey is a bit awkward.

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memorial-on-rylstone-cross

Even though I have included Rylstone Cross and Cracoe Monumnet on a walk from Embsay I fancied a closer exploration of the gritstone rock which necessitated a walk from the west. Hetton was the choice even though it was 1/2 a mile further than Rylstone or Cracoe but a pint sat outside the Angel was a suitably attractive incentive. The moor (access land) is soon reached from Rylstone (home of the Calendar Girls) with bleak peaty moorland stretching far out to the west and south. However the walk sticks to the escarpment edge and is great fun – first Rylstone Cross is passed (impressive but being honest I have no idea what it’s history or purpose is, please enlighten me if you know) and a mile further on Cracoe Monument (a war monument for the residents of Cracoe and nearby farms) both spectacularly perched on outcrops of sandy rock overlooking the dales below. Finally the path drops steeply towards Cracoe and a short walk back to Hetton. The pleasure of this walk is the path on the escarpment and the scrambling on the boulders that pepper its edges – a good half day.

Recommend: There is a Marilyn 1 mile to the north east of Cracoe Monument….trackless!

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looking-east-over-addleborough

Walks from Hawes have a tendency to be short but heading south up the Pennine Way and over Dodd Fell Hill to Wether Fell defies this image. The circuit round the head of Sleddale may be long, but aside from tackling the peat hags near the watershed some excellent paths make it relatively quick to travel on. I headed up the Pennine Way (my natural instinct is always to go anti clockwise – someone told me it was because I am right footed) towards Dodd Fell Hill with the only decision to be made being when to leave the fast bridleway and venture on to this largely unvisited hill top (668ms). The OS pillar appears to have been planted on the driest rather than highest spot! South and then east crosses the peat in its least offensive state and joins a farm track quicker than I anticipated. The second summit of the day is Wether Fell which is much more interesting but the summit is trackless with only, the soon to be shot at, pheasants for company! The views back down to Hawes and east along Wensleydale are superb and complete an excellent day on the high, less well known hills of the Yorkshire Dales.

Recommend: Waiting as long as possible before leaving the Pennine Way and heading for the summit of Dodd Fell Hill – particularly if the ground is wet.

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ling-gill-bridge

The 3 Peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside and to a lesser extent Pen y Ghent form the backdrop to a long walk I took on a warm, sunny day in March. The walk passes from the upper reaches of Ribblesdale to Oughtershaw in the far reaches of Wharfedale (although not the River Wharfe) – a wild, lonely area of high moors and lovely dales. Visitors to this area are almost exclusively drawn from the two long distance footpaths (Pennine Way and Dales Way) which lead here as they pass over the watersheds of 3 dales; Wensleydale, Wharfedale and Ribblesdale. Probably they are head down, certainly tired and if my experience of multi day walking is anything to go by, fixated with the end goal for that day. A day walk though offers an opportunity to appreciate the contrasts in this walk; the wild, lonely high moors, the beautiful hidden gills near Oughtershaw and Leck Bridge and a stretch of forestry which is sufficiently open on good paths to make it highly enjoyable. It is an interesting area and I certainly felt a much greater understanding of the Yorkshire Dales having completed it.

Recommend: I started from near Horton but Oughtershaw may be the most natural start point with the forestry section being at the beginning of the walk.

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hackfall-woods

Hackfall Woods is a lovely area of woodland which is being restored by the Woodland Trust after years of decline. The approach along the River Ure via the Ripon Rowal footpath from Masham is an ideal way to approach the woods and the falls from which it gained its name in Victorian times. Returning via the pretty village of Grewelthorpe and Nutwith Common makes sense and completes a pleasant circuit contrasting riverside, woodland and some great views across the Ure towards Masham on the return. I must admit I completed the walk in February and the woods were not at their best but all I have seen and read suggests they are a vision of beauty for large parts of the year. The Woodland Trust have a project of restoration taking place at the moment with view points for the actual Hack Fall and paths leading up to the folly overlooking the bend in the river. It is an area that one of our greatest artists JMR Turner enjoyed in the early 19th century with a couple of his paintings depicting the woods and falls of Hackfall. I will return when the trees are in bloom!

Recommend: Take time in the woods and follow the ‘off shoot’ paths to enticing little corners and surprises.

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