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whelprigg-country-house

The Bronte sisters attended the old girl’s school at Casterton and much of their childhood memories must come from this splendid old school and its surrounding countryside. The hills over Barbon certainly look wild enough to satisfy them but in reality the River Lune meanders gently through this pleasant low level valley creating some lovely walking along lanes and over fields. Both Barbon and Casterton are attractive villages (with good pubs) and like Kirkby Lonsdale worth taking a little bit of extra time to fully explore; some of the country houses worth seeking out (if only from a distance) are Barbon Manor, Whelprigg and Casterton Hall to name but three all major land marks on the old railway which passed through this valley.

Recommend: By the time you read this you may be walking in the Yorkshire Dales National Park if the proposed extension goes ahead

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dallow-and-the-hall

Dallowgill is a beautiful wedge of woodland which lies 3 miles from Kirkby Malzeard and within easy access of Masham and Ripon. If , like me, you had never heard of the area before then I strongly recommend a visit. I would have skirted past the area if not for a recommendation from someone in the know. The small hamlet of Dallow (little more than an old hall and some cottages)  lies on the edge of the moorland which stretches south west unbroken to Pateley Bridge with the small ‘Dallow Gill’ flowing past 100 yards away. The woodland that cloaks the steep sides of the stream is a delight; Scots Pine lives here next to willow, larch and even some ancient oaks with green paths showing the trees off to great effect. The views across the Vale of York stretch to Roseberry Topping and the escarpment of the Yorkshire Moors whilst nearer to home is Greygarth Monument (erected by locals to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897) – the top of which can be reached by a ladder through its middle, Dallow Hall and the wonderful church next to the outdoor centre. But this is a land the time has thankfully passed by, enjoy it whilst you can

Recommend: There are 22 mosaics dotted over the moors which can be searched out (with some difficulty – I did not) and ticked off. They were made by locals in 1997 and are now attached to startegically placed boulders

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jervaulx-abbey

A lovely stretch of riverside, an abbey, an impressive old hall, a pearl of a village and some lovely walking across the Jervaulx Abbey estate and Danby Hall makes this one of the best lowland walks in the Yorkshire Dales. Finishing (or starting) with a visit to the Jervaulx Abbey tea room and stopping off for a quick one at the Coverbridge Inn adds to the enjoyment. I always get pleasure from  wandering through the ruins of old abbeys and this was no exception; the beautiful situation adding to a tangible sense of real history. The abbey was built by the Cistercians in 1156 and was a real treasure trove until Henry V111 experienced certain marital problems in the 16th century and it thereafter fell in to disrepair. The grounds roll pleasantly to the river (as do those on the other side at Danby Hall) and are great to walk through but I must admit that my favourite stretch of the walk passes next to the river from the Coverbridge Inn to the abbey. The path here is excellent and religiously follows the river bank whilst it leaves the river on the east side.

Recommend: Having done the walk in a clockwise direction I would recommend the anticlockwise circuit; the abbey should be seen initially, the riverside walk is a great way to finish and the inn is more strategically placed!

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on-the-gallops-at-middleham

On any walk from Middleham it is impossible to avoid two things. The first is the splendid castle which dominates this most attractive of villages and was a firm favourite of Richard III whilst the second is horses – racehorses by the dozen. Racehorse training in Middleham has been around for 200 years and there are still 15 firmly established, and successful, training stables in the village. As I headed out over the gallops with its splendid views over Wensleydale the poor dog did not know quite what to do with thoroughbreds coming at her from all angles. After a mile and a half the walk leaves the high ground and enters Tupgill Park, the home of the Forbidden Corner (a 4 acre 20th century popular tourist attraction). Fortunately it was closed as I headed for the river and the beautiful cluster of houses, church and ruined abbey of Coverham. The woods banking the River Cover are another lovely spot to dawdle before heading back to Middleham. I am not sure there is any walk I have completed which packs so much in to such a relatively small area.

Recommend: The gates outside Coverham Abbey were locked but there appears to be no objection for walkers to skirt the gates on the wall. I checked with some locals and they said the locked gates were to stop motorists not walkers.

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easby-abbey

The ruins of Easby Abbey make a lovely afternoon stroll from Richmond following both banks of the River Swale. The abbey is apparently Premonstratensian (careful how it is spelt) which is derived from a French Catholic order of the 12th century but it was good old English soldiers who largely destroyed it during their stay on route to the Battle of Neville’s Cross in 1346. Unlike other abbeys it was left to fall in to disrepair and now has little familiarity with the impressive working abbey it once was. However I coupled the visit to the abbey ruins with a visit to the still very impressive Richmond Castle which is one of the best examples of a Norman fort in England today. The stretch of river bank linking the two offers a very easy stroll with the powerful River Swale a deep brown colour, derived from the peat and moors further up the dale. The power of the river was such that strenuous efforts had to be made to ensure Easby Abbey did not drop in to the river a few tears ago – have a look at how it has cut in to the bank near the abbey ruins!

Recommend: Wander up from the abbey and take a look at the little group of buildings at Easby itself.

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hole-bottom-hebden

The popular walk around Grimwith Reservoir is a 4 and 1/2 mile tramp from the large car park on its southern flank. For bird watchers this is a great choice with the reservoir being an important habitat for some rare species including the wigeon. However there is much more to the area and a walk around Grimwith Reservoir can be reasonably well combined with a walk up Hebden Beck; quite beautiful and full of historical interest. Hebden Beck combines some exquisite scenery with an array of old buildings, quarries and a 40 metre high, perfectly preserved chimney which I simply had to visit. Only in Swaledale are the remains of the old lead mining industry which used to sustain the Yorkshire Dales (along with farming) so easy to view and explore. Cutting across to Grimwith Reservoir Reservoir from the chimney involves a mile and a half of Grassington Moor, sometimes wet and trackless. Above the reservoir the spectacular gorge of Blea Gill is out of bounds (although I did find myself in it!) but a track skirts the northgern boundary dumping you on the reservoir path easily enough. I think this is a great walk and one of my personal favourites for its variety and ‘interest value’ – top 10 material.

Recommend: If for whatever reason you do not fancy the 11 miles do not ignore Hebden Gill, look at the photos, it is lovely!

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stonyhurst-college

JRR Tolkein stayed at and visited Stonyhurst College regularly as he was researching and writing the epic trilogy of the Lord of the Rings. As a visiting professor he gained access to the college and the grounds on frequent visits whilst during and after the 2nd World War he stayed in a guest house whilst visiting his son. The college towers, the mythology that surrounds nearby Pendle Hill and the woods and rivers of the grounds undoubtedly supplied much of the inspiration behind Middle Earth and I picked up the leaflet for the Tolkein Trail to see if I could get some feeling as to how he was thinking as he wondered the area. Even as a great fan I could not really picture the inspirational scenes of the book aside from the long loop of the Ribble which could easily have been the inspiration behind the Brandybuck when Frodo and the gang were leaping to escape the Ringwraithes. The walk is a heritage trail and passes close by the college before heading off to the River Hodder and later the Ribble itself. Cromwell’s Bridge, Winkley Hall, Hacking Hall and the aqueduct which passes over the Ribble just outside Hurst Green are passed at regular intervals and enliven this pleasant and interesting 1/2 day walk.

Recommend: If you never have, read Lord of the Rings.

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fountains-abbey-from-the-grounds

Nothing rugged about Fountains Abbey or Studley Park just a dramatically preserved abbey set next to a beautiful country park. The walk through the ancient ruins conjures up images over an 800 year period; apparently the abbey was founded by just 13 wandering monks before becoming one of the richest monasteries in the land – Henry VIII must have been extremely grateful! The great wealth was generated by the lay helpers at the abbey, not the Cistercian monks who were obliged to spend the majority of time at prayer. Following the Dissolution in 1538 the monastery fell in to disrepair but two centuries later the Royal estate of Studley Park was reunited with that of the abbey and the picturesque Water Gardens were built. The Victorians loved it here, spending hours wandering the grounds and picnicking with the deer but it was not until 1983 that the site became a World Heritage Site. The National Trust now own and manage the land with great success, I found that I could wander freely and explore intimately the entire area without any sense that I should not…something they do not always achieve. The walk is 3 miles long and takes in the Abbey, the Water Gardens and the deer park but I would suggest following in the footsteps of Anne Boleyn on the higher ground of the Water Garden for the surprising follies and wonderful views.

Recommend: Take time to visit the mill, the oldest building on site but now a great example of a working watermill

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skipton-castle-from-the-north

I always like castles to have a proper history; at some stage they should have been beseiged, partly destroyed and have commanding views of any unwanted armies. Skipton Castle achieves this, with its rich history including being the last Royalist stronghold in the north and beating off a variety of Scottish raids, but also occupies a commanding position within the gateway to the north. The moat can be clearly seen behind the castle where the walls look impregnable whilst Skipton Woods was used for many centuries to collect fuel, provide building materials and the animals provided more than sufficient food for the inhabitants. The woods are now leased to the Woodland Trust and are mainly made up of a large variety of Ash trees and some birch all which are wrapped round Eller Beck. The walk follows the shores of the canal in its initial stages before carrying on next to the banks of the river, all on an excellent path suitable for push chairs or wheel chairs but from the bypass the walk is steeper and finally crosses some open fields with great views over the town of Skipton.

Recommend: Explore the areas near the canal behind the main street on Skipton.

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surrender-bridge

For a full explanation of the lead mining history of the Swaledale valley I would visit the museum in Reeth but to fully appreciate the scale of the mining their are 2 places to visit. One of these is Gunnerside Gill whilst the other is the fellside of Great Pinseat and nearby Hard Level Gill. Old mines and old mining buildings dot the landscape and dominate the scenery. In many ways it is a bleak place, a desolate landscape and it is difficult to imagine what it was like centuries ago when the fell side was covered with woodland and wild boar and deer were hunted by the locals. Away from the gill there is now just a an up turned bowl of heather stretching on 3 sides as far as the eye can see, a nothing landscape except for the grouse preparing themselves for the annual cull. However it is grand walking country, the empty miles passing quickly, it is a place to forget your troubles and enjoy the fresh air, the quiet and above all the enormous sky….beats being in a city!

Recommend: I started the walk from Surrender Bridge, the walking below really only a preliminary to what is above. Not worth it.

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