High Pyrenees

It is only recently that my brother Barry has broadened his horizons beyond the UK and has made 2 visits to the Pyrenees climbing the 1st and 3rd highest mountains in the area. Retirement is just around the corner so expect a few more overseas trips.

Perdido (Pyrenees) – 3355 metres (11,007 feet)

I climbed Perdido late in June 2010 as part of Jo Bradwell’s 65th birthday celebration trip to the Pyrenees. Perdido is the third highest Pyreneen peak and in good weather late in the season ie August/early September when there is little snow, it is probably one of the easier of the 3000 metre peaks in the Pyrenees.

However we made it a hard day by walking up and down from the car park at the Pradera de Ordesa one day in late June with snow from 8000 feet. My recollection is that this took 10.5 hours for what was a relatively fit party.

About 20 of us set out from the car park at just over 4000 feet but not all expected to reach the summit. A good path took us up the valley floor for about 5 miles before a steep and rocky section (easy scrambling) took us off the valley floor and on to the plateau and the Goriz refuge. Some 3000 feet of climbing and about 7 miles from the car park to the refuge was completed in about 2.5 hours.

The route from the refuge then goes up steeply (but still a good path) towards the Lago Helado which is at nearly 10,000 feet. Towards the end of this section the snow and altitude started to take its toll and I slowed up finding it difficult to maintain speed as my steps kept breaking the crust of snow leaving me floundering in deep snow.

Five of us regrouped near the lake to view the summit slopes. Without crampons we were clearly under equipped. However there were footmarks in the snow and with the snow now soft rather than icy we thought we would continue. Slowly we worked our way up the slopes stopping every 20 steps or so to recover breath and taking care as to fall off in places could have been serious. Eventually we reached the summit. Fantastic views into France but thunder and lightning were threatening so we started down.

The other 4 made faster progress than me down the steep snow slopes. We passed 2 more from our party on their way up who later reported that the lightening was crackling and dangerous when they reached the summit. They tried to discourage others from continuing up the mountain when they were descending

We retraced our steps just making the bus at 5.00pm and I struggled to walk up the stairs that evening!

So Perdido is an excellent introduction to the Pyrenean 3000 metre peaks. I would make three recommendations:-

1 Take crampons unless you are assured that the peak is clear of snow (this would probably only be the case in August).
2 Unless you want a long day with nearly 7000 feet of climbing, book in at the Goriz refuge the night before.
3 Watch out for thunderstorms.

Having climbed Perdido, 5 of us went back to the Pyrenees late in August to climb Pic D Aneto, the highest mountain in the Pyrenees at 11,168 feet (3,404 metre). This time we were fully equipped with crampons and ice axes.

Monte Perdido is the 3rd highest peak in the Pyrenees at 3355m and was described by the famous Pyrenees pioneer Louis Ramond de Carbonnières as “the most beautiful limestone peak in Europe”.

Pic D Aneto (Pyrenees) – 3404 metres (11,168 feet)

We stayed in Benasque taking the bus up to the car park at La Besurta (cars not allowed as far as La Besurta in the summer season) arriving there at around 8.00am.

From there we walked up to the Renclusa refuge at around 7000 feet, 800 feet of ascent. This only took about 30 minutes so it is not necessary to stay in the refuge if climbing Pic D Aneto.

From there steep and at times bouldery slopes lead up the mountain to the ridge on the skyline. The path was at times difficult to follow but we continued up the steep slopes for about 2,500 feet finally traversing below the ridge to reach the gap in the ridge,named Portillon Superior, at about 9,500 feet. The sun shone out of a clear blue sky, the views were fantastic.

From there we traversed mixed snow and rocky/muddy ground until we reached where the glacier had not melted just below Pico de Corunes. It was time to put on the crampons, my first climb with crampons at age 54! They weren’t too difficult to use and I was glad of the security as we traversed the mountain where a slip would have left me sliding a fair way down the mixed ice and snow slopes. We then turned to go directly up the final snow slope toward the rocky summit. There were footmarks in the snow to follow and a number of people following the route.

We arrived at the col, took off the crampons and left the rucksacks at the col. The altitude was starting to take its toll and we were slowing up markedly, now at nearly 11,000 feet. We then made our way up the path to the final short rocky ridge which leads to the summit.

Some people were using ropes but although the ridge is exposed it is not difficult and relatively short, anyone who has been on the cuillin ridge should be able to cope with this, at least in late August when there is no snow on the summit slopes.

We arrived at the summit with its cross and other paraphenelia still in unbroken sunshine.

A great climb but a long way down! On the way down I slipped off a snow slope into a glaciated pond much to the amusement of everyone. I also became very parched particularly on the final slopes down to the refuge which seemed endless. After a coke at the refuge and an orangeade at the bus stop I began to feel civilised again.

It took 9.5 hours up and down from the end of the road which meant we were back at the hotel for a bath and dinner.

A great and memorable day!