A Typical Walk (no targets and stress free)

Walking is meant to be stress free, many find it otherwise. I have outlined a day when I ventured forth in to the Cheviots near Kirk Yetholm which was an absolute delight. I explored virgin territory, there was no specific goal but I discovered and learnt things I would never have known following a prescribed route.

I have spent most of my outdoor life walking with a purpose in mind, in fact a very specific aim. Most of the time this was a mountain summit (Munros, Dales 30 or Wainwrights), more recently guided days, navigation training courses or simply a day where I had responsibility for others. All led to an element of inflexibility which often leads to a more stressful walk. The outcome was more important than the journey.

This day at Kirk Yetholm was different. I knew very little about the village on the Scottish Border except it is the end point of the Pennine Way. As a result I have wanted to visit and walk there for a while, just to get a feel for the place. A day opened up when I could do just that.

The Borders being an area I know little about (but starting to get to know better) I did what I always do and opened out my paper map on the floor and studied it. I never go with pre-planned walks or use other people’s routes, I always want to create my own. And here is the rub. The vast majority of people heading in to the outdoors do not want (or more likely are unable) to create their own routes. They slavishly follow others, whether on an app or, god forbid, Google maps.

I look at a paper map (and I use the 1.25,000 O/S ones) because I can imagine the big picture. It is so enjoyable looking at paths, contours, places of historical interest, possible views, lunch spots etc and ‘picture’ the walk. Throw in an ability to time a walk (roughly, never put in a fixed time as this heightens the stress monitor) and suddenly the possibilities arise. Without over quoting the incomparable Life of Brian and the phrase ‘we are all individuals’ it is true that every individual has their own desires on a walk whether it is the pace you are walking, how much up hill, any risks, anything particular to see etc: However a ‘purpose’ or a ‘goal’ always gets in the way.

I planned to walk this on my own with Holly, my border collie. Many will not have the confidence or skills (at the present) to walk on their own. However over time and with practice everyone can. Many will never want to and prefer walking with a few familiar faces. Which is great as long as you are not just being dragged along to others whims. I like mixing it up, sometimes on my own, other time with others. Most do not walk on their own as they simply do not have the confidence to do so.

Back to Kirk Yetholm. My map studying had come up with a plan. The plan was to follow the’ High Route’ which marks the conclusion of the Pennine Way and return via the ‘Low Route’ which also can. My route details are here. The two gave a walk of roughly 8 miles, a 3 to 3 and a half hour walk dependant on how much I stopped or decided varied the day. I very rarely have a specific route which I must stick to, I look for alternatives that may be interesting and I also have flexibility when I am out there. I may be tired, the cloud comes in, some summit appeals (as it did today) on the spur of the moment, all adding variety to the basic planned day.

On arrival at Kirk Yetholm I parked up in the village which proved to be my only error of the day. and that was my only error of the day. Kirk Yetholm is lovely but there is 1 mile of road walking (and 80m of climbing) between the village and the ford at Halter Brook where the path leaves the road. Near the ford is a cleared space which serves as a car park, not marked and not official but knowing of it would have been useful. In essence it would have given me more time to explore the hills rather than a 2 mile walk on the road. It was my only slight frustration on the day but not serious and as a positive enabled me to imagine the final effort along the road to complete the Pennine Way. It is only by being out there, making the odd mistake, that we still learn.

From the ford the Pennine Way/St Cuthbert’s Way path heads east on to the hillside alongside a pretty stream. It is an easy gradient on a lovely grassy path (the weather was dry) and before long the views all around opened up. To the north and west the lower level Borders stretched in to the distance, to the south and east rolling Cheviot Hills dominated the skyline. It was perfect.

The path soon split, St Cuthbert’s Way heading off to Wooler whilst the Pennine Way (my choice) bent more southerly and soon arrived at a broad grassy ridge. A fence marked the border between England and Scotland and I was to follow it for the next hour. The benign weather was kind but the path was very enjoyable, albeit undoubtedly undulating! Plenty of effort was needed and at one stage I pulled off the path and perched myself for 10 minutes on a pointy summit at Whitelaw Nick. It looked a good spot and was.

Scotland is of course all access land, in England more restricted but all the upland areas are. It is something many are not aware of but does give the opportunity to wander off the paths and enjoy those perfect spots you find by doing just that. Have a read what you can and cannot do here.

On the walk itself I only saw 3 different parties, a group of ladies clearly about to complete the Pennine Way and two couples who, like me. seemed to be somewhat aimless although one had mentioned passing the Schil. I continued over Steer Rigg with the large massif of Cheviot starting to dominate the scene ahead. When I arrived at the Pennine Way split I decided not to continue to the Schil but turn on to the lowland Pennine Way path. I had been up the Schil recently, from the east, so I was not concerned, I may have climbed it if I had not the extra 2 miles of road walking at the beginning and end of the walk!

The trig point of the Curr proved irresistible however. Whilst on the walk I did not use my paper walk but just the excellent O/S app. Being on the phone and able to zoom it is simply more convenient. However I did retrieve my paper map out on the Curr, orientated it and enjoyed spotting hills, villages, valleys and farms all around. The combination of paper and app is perfect. They are useful for entirely different things – not one or the other is perfect on its own.

The descent is quick to the valley floor on an excellent track. On arrival the views had gone. However the valley was full of interest with hill forts, traditional working farms with enough to wile away the walk. Holly was mainly on a lead at this point as sheep were nearby but as a rule I leave her off the lead. In today’s world this is frowned upon but I have always walked my collies for 30 years off the lead on the higher hills and never had a problem. They are trained not to chase but nearer farms or fields of sheep I slip the lead on. It is not worth any confrontation and is common decency. To be honest Holly is much more interested in a stick or scratty bit of grass than any farm animals. Similar to so many things in life the minority bad behaviour effects the majority.

After a 2 1/2 mile walk along the valley floor the final climb over to Kirk Yetholm was frustrating but I amused myself with imagining I was completing the Pennine Way and dreaming of the celebratory pint at the excellent Border hotel. Here I stretched my legs out, back to the pub wall and enjoyed watching a few more Pennine Wayers arriving. Most looked pleased with themselves, each one tired and the majority were European (a mix of German, Dutch and a surprising Italian lady).

I have described this walk because I enjoyed it so much. And I enjoyed it because there was no ‘itinerary’, no pressure and a route I had created myself and could flex whilst I was out and about. Great chunks of our outdoors are empty and ripe for exploration if people learn the basic skills and gained the confidence to enjoy it. Take a Navigation Course so you know the basics but more importantly just get out there, do not worry about getting lost because the more you do it the better you will be.

Enjoy your walking

Jonathan