I recently spent a pleasant half day walking and exploring the rarely visited western flanks of Whernside. I was only able to complete this lovely walk because in Britain we have a Right to Roam in our country’s designated Access Land.
Heading up from the col between Kingsdale and Deepdale to the summit, I then kept to the western side of the summit ridge wall and explored the 3 Tarns of Whernside. I returned to the col via the scar overlooking Deepdale, mainly on a sheep track although some of the route was trackless.
Most of the Upland areas of England and Wales is designated as Access Land. In essence this means you can walk anywhere and not just stick to the Official Rights of Way. It is a perfect example of a positive campaign bringing a change of law. In 1932 the Kinder Trespass started a movement that was recognized in 1999 by the legalisation of ‘Access Land’. Now anyone can enjoy the freedom, fascination and fresh air of our upland moors and mountains.
However very few walkers even know their rights. Even if they have heard of their Right to Roam they are often put off by warnings, threats of restrictions and angry landowners. The lack of knowledge on Access laws always surprises me. It should not. Nothing is included in the National Curriculum, there is no promotion from local authorities and national parks so why should the average hiker know?
When I hold Navigation Courses one of the first things I do is ask if anyone knows why the background colour on the 1.25k O/S Explorer maps are split between yellow and white (refer to the photo below). Access land is yellow, This means, with certain local restrictions, you can walk anywhere. White background land is not, here you must stick to the Rights of Way. Even if walkers have noticed the colour change very few know what it means.
At best those on my Navigation Courses talk about a change from Lowland to Upland areas, maybe rougher and tamer terrain. In reality this is a generally true. However there is no fixed height change. Even if the participants have heard of Access land they have no idea what it means or the implication for themselves. How disappointing is that!
Not having to stick to paths offers the walker the ‘Right to Roam’. This may mean rough walking or wet walking but often no worse than an eroded Lakeland path. Over time tracks start appearing on the access land where people (or sheep) have walked repeatedly. For example there is a track on Whernside near the 3 Tarns that leads to a large cairn with fantastic views over Dentdale (see top photo). Many of the Lakeland summits are only accessed by these ‘paths on the ground’ (which can be obvious or faint) as there is no official Right of Way over the summit.
Rights of Way are shown by green dashed lands on the O/S Explorer maps (paper or app) and Paths on the Ground are shown by black dashes on mapping. You are only allowed on black dashed footpaths on access land, those walking on black dashed footpaths on non access land are trespassing. Many do.
However most walkers religiously stick to Public Rights of Way even whilst walking in access land. Often these footpaths do offer the best route and the easiest walking. However I usually prefer breaking away from them and exploring different places, different views and finding other interesting aspects of nature. It is usually more peaceful as well. On my recent Whernside visit I did walk a few hundred metres on the official/summit ridge and encountered a number of people. However as soon as I left the official route I never saw a soul. It was great. It was what hill walking is about. Explore with confidence.
Hidden Gems: It is becoming an over used phrase and I am not specifically naming them but if you leave the designated path that is where you will find the real Hidden Gems. It may be a fantastic or unusual view point, it may be a hidden tarn, it may be an historical settlement or it may just be a peaceful hidden place where no-one has ever been. There is one thing for certain, you will not discover these gems if you do not look for them. Spread your map out and go hunting.
Many hikers are fixated by the ‘goal’ of a walk and will never want to leave official footpaths. However for those who do learning suitable navigation skills is very important. Learning to walk on a bearing using a compass over rough ground is necessary but so is an understanding that walls (as an example) and other handrails such as steep streams may provide an uncross able barrier. Reading the detail on a map and understanding the implications is important. All of these skills are taught on the Hill Skills Navigation Course created specifically for those wanting to explore off official paths.
In Scotland the right to roam covers even wider areas with only limited and local restrictions. Anyone heading off to climb the Scottish Munros will find much of their time spent on pathless, rough ground. The ability to navigate safely and with confidence becomes even more relevant here.
However this blog is about encouraging walkers to leave paths and explore the wider area. It is not a scary place and even if you venture off the paths by accident treat it as an adventure, it will probably be the most enjoyable part of the walk (and certainly the most memorable).
Enjoy your walking
Jonathan
For a full list of all my ‘Best of…’ blogs please follow this link
Hi,
Can dogs be completely banned from open access land by the land owner?
Yes they can and in some places they are. Some landowners for grouse ‘management’ purposes have been able to get dispensation to close their access land to dogs which is a shame. Simon’s Seat on the Bolton Abbey estate being one.
Hi Jon, have appreciated your blog over last couple of years, and hope to join you on a refresher int course, all the best tony
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