Having walked Britain as much as most I can safely say the Dales are completely unique. No visit to another area of England, Wales and Scotland can compare to a visit (or living in) the area. It is partly the physical landscape. However there is also a sense of nostalgia and open space not found elsewhere, certainly in England.
It is partly geographic, partly historic. The Dales is a physically large tract of land bounded by wild moorland to its north and south. It is landlocked with no distraction of a coastline and,, in addition, no high and pointy mountains to attract the thrill seeker. It is a landscape without any of these distinctive features but the characteristics described further down the blog all combine to provide a sense of times past, unique and an inner well being. Its a stress buster!.
In my humble opinion there are 5 characteristics which make the Dales so special.
‘The classic Dales photograph’ depicts a landscape of rolling fields usually full of sheep and bounded with dry stone walls and stone barns stretching in to the distance. It is a scene I certainly never cease to enjoy when I am out and about. The dry stone walls, many over 300 years old, not only have withstood everything that the British weather can throw at it but reflect the long history of farming in the area.
Originally built to define a tenants land the walls are now preserved to characterise the area. Farmers work on them for both practical and aesthetic reasons. The Stone Barns complement the walls with their own history and character. Now they are sort after for housing, a reflection of both the quality of the building and the quality of limestone used to build them.
The Old Gang
The Dales has a fascinating history. Ancient Roman Roads, ruined and semi ruined monasteries, the castles which became the centre of the Yorkist’s rise to glory in the Middle Ages and the development of farming and tourism in more recent times are all best seen on a walk . A walk along Mallerstang or a visit to Bolton Abbey can not be replicated in other parts of the country.
However it is the industrial history of the 18th and 19th century that makes the Dales unique. Swaledale is the best example of how lead mining has shaped the landscape of an individual dale, particularly if you take the walk up Gunnerside Gill and on to the hillsides above. The lead mines above Grassington is another excellent places to understand the impact the industry had in the Dales.
There are also cotton and wool mills along Ribblesdale and Nidderdale, coal mines on the higher hills including the summit plateau of Fountains Fell and, of course, the wonderful Settle to Carlisle Railway. If you haven’t used the railway and walked between the stations you should.
The history of England is well chartered in the Dales!
The villages and small market towns in the Dales are lovely and have bags of character. The Yorkshire Stone traditionally used on most of the building give the villages and their individual buildings a lightness and quality that could only form a ‘Dales village’. I accept that there is a place for the thatch in the Cotswolds or the slate and whitewash of the Lakes. However visit one of the exquisite (and tranquil) villages of West Burton, Thwaite or Stainforth and be delighted.
It is these villages (and their quite excellent pubs) which go a long way to create the ‘Image of the Dales’. As portrayed in many TV programmes the traditional Yorkshire village and pub brings back a nostalgia and yearning for a better or at least simpler age. And of course the beer is superb, whether enjoyed in a pub beer garden or in front of a cosy fire.
The Dales are a place of emptiness. I can spend hours, even on the more popular walks without seeing a soul. I have written about this in a recent piece titled ‘Avoiding Malham‘, do not believe the media reports of the busy countryside. It is nonsense. In a largely crowded country the peace and ability to get away from ‘the real world’ is a blessing. Some of the hotspots are busy, granted, but there are not that many. Strike out for 15 minutes from even a Malham/Bolton Abbey and enjoy the peace.
The emptiness of the Dales has meant nature can often thrive. Whereas native mammals are at a premium. the bird life is impressive, I was delighted to watch a kingfisher recently and the peregrine falcons are a delight, as are the Red Squirrels protected near Hawes and the wonderfully colourful butterflies. I know less about the wild flowers of the area but I have walked through the increasing numbers of Hay Meadows in the area. In June they are simply fabulous.
I enjoy walking the Howgills more than any other part of the Dales. It is unique and wonderful to stride over their steep slopes and wide ridges. However it is in complete contrast to a walk through the dramatic limestone scenery of Malham or the South Western Dales near Ingleborough. Similarly the grouse moors around Coverdale and along Mallerstang offer another completely different experience on a walk. Enjoy the variety.
However walk further and enjoy the many excellent public rights of way either up Dales or over hills. Strike out in to the Access Land for your own unique viewing point and enjoy the adventure. Challenges such as the Dales 30 bring people in to the area. Walking Festivals, the Yorkshire 3 Peaks and the Wharfedale 3 Peaks all also offer unique and special walking days.
Let’s help preserve the Dales but at the same time encourage many more to come and visit….there is room for them!
Happy walking
Jonathan
Love reading this – I think another trip needs to be planned to visit some more of the dales!
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