Birdoswald is one of the best preserved forts on Hadrian’s Wall. It lies on the western edge of the most interesting section of the wall and is best approached from the village of Gilsland. From Gilsland to Birdoswald is only 2 miles so I have extended the walk along the wall with a return via some lovely open countryside.
Strictly this is a Cumbrian walk, not Northumbrian. However the village of Gilsland straddles both counties before the path along the River Irthing heads west. There is a lot of history packed in to the route from Gilsland to Birdoswald. The River Irthing provides one of 3 main river crossings along Hadrian;s Wall, the others being the Eden and north Tyne. As well as challenging the Roman’s when they built the wall it also challenges the walker! The short stretch is hard work. However Milecastle 49 is particular makes up for this, splendid views at a well preserved casle.
The notice boards make a huge difference to the uninitiated I must say. They are full of interesting facts and help make the realities of living in Roman times come alive. Birdoswald Fort itself is another well explained fort run by English Heritage. As a member of the National Trust howeverI am frustrated by the difference and not actually visited inside the fort itself!
From Birdoswald heading west the nature of the walk completely changes. The walking is easy as it heads along the ‘original’ turf wall, a 100 metres south of the later stone one. The turf wall did make up much of he west end of Hadrian’s Wall, maybe due to lack of suitable stone quarries. However it was replaced 20 years or so later. After 1 1/2 leave the wall and head south across rolling farmland.
Re-cross the River Irthing near a prominent farm before climbing on to a quiet country lane. Follow this (and the line of of the Penrith Newcastle cross country train service back to the start.
It really is worth extending the walk beyond Birdoswald Fort to get a feel of the turf wall and vallum even if you return the same way.
Road Walking. It can be essential on many walks to spend some time walking on a road. Generally white or yellow roads are ok, traffic tends to be slower. However try and avoid any extended walks on B roads (marked orange) and certainly A Roads (marked red). In this case the B road is ok and there is a good grass verge.
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