Jonathan’s View “Lonely hills and quiet towns make any visit as a wonderful trip back in time.” The Cumbrian Dales I always viewed the Howgills and the Cumbrian Dales from the M6 with a certain longing. To walk their lofty, grassy ridges was very tempting. However I was always hurrying to Scotland or the Lake District to stop for a closer exploration. However in the last 15 years I have become a regular visitor and fan. The Howgills in particular are a delight to walk on. Further East of the Howgills the remote Pennine spine offers some much tougher and largely trackless days. Mallerstang is a lovely valley and any stay based in the town of Kirkby Stephen offers the walker endless walking opportunities. Whilst not pretty there is a remoteness and timelessness which has defied the modern world making this a genuine journey back in time. Sedbergh and Kirkby Stephen are two good sized towns where you will probably end up staying. Sedbergh is the gateway to the Howgills whilst further north Kirkby Stephen is situated perfectly for Mallerstang and the Pennine chain. Both towns are easily accessible from the M6 and Kirkby Stephen is on the Settle to Carlisle rail line. More to the Howgills The Dales 30 bookRated 4.88 out of 5 £12.95 More info Dales 30. The Perfect Challenge. The Rivers of the Yorkshire Dales Access Land, Explore it, Enjoy it Sedbergh Winder summit Sedbergh is a town I visited a lot as a young lad on trips to the famous old boarding school. My elder brother went there (no money for a younger brother) and spent his time eulogising about the Howgill fells which dominate the town. He claims to have run up Winder most days. Known locally as the ‘Sleepy Elephants’ the Howgills have some superb walking, once on the ridges you can walk for hours with views to the Dales to the east and the Lake District to the west. I find Sedbergh a fascinating little town, with an interesting array of small shops offering a variety of interesting and little found things. Sedbergh sells itself as the ‘English Book Town’ and there are a number of small shops selling second hand books Hay on Wye in Wales and Wigton in Scotland are the other two Book Towns. Sedbergh also has some very attractive old churches and school buildings and has a certain timelessness that many will find appealing. Kirkby Stephen Lammerside Castle, Mallerstang Kirkby Stephen could do with some investment and, if that happened, it would become one of the tourist hot spots of the Dales. The situation is fantastic with endless walking, much of it from the door. Despite this tourism income has unfortunately not increased sufficiently to ensure the upgrade of facilities which is so sorely needed. The town lies on the Coast to Coast which does bring traffic but, sandwiched between the dramatic Lakes and pretty Dales, it is often forgotten. Kirkby Stephen needs to develop its own identity. Mallerstang just to the north is a delight and the hills of Wild Boar, High Seat and Nine Standards Rigg provide excellent if rough walking. There is a wonderful history, old churches and buildings and I would urge anyone to give it a try. Just up the road Nateby is tucked beautifully in to the fells. Orton Further west is Orton with its famous limestone pavement and Crosby Ravensworth, quiet villages with some excellent walking nearby. Tamer than the moors of Sedbergh and Kirkby Stephen but still a place that is worth exploring. A Rich History Church at Crosby Ravensworth The early history of the Howgills and the area around Kirkby Stephen is dominated by its geographical situation on the old trade routes leading to the northern frontier. It was first used in Roman times to bring the legions north to build and protect Hadrian’s Wall. Henry VII granted Sedbergh market town status and the famous old school also originated from this time. Lady Anne Clifford may be Mallerstang’s most famous resident. She helped restore Pendragon Castle in the 17th century, a castle allegedly owned by King Arthur’s father. It is sheep farming which has dominated the area since the mid 17th century. Knitting and woollen industries thrived in the 19th century and left a legacy of buildings that can be seen in both Sedbergh and Kirkby Stephen. However the gradual decline of these industries has meant that the area has suffered. Tourism never really replaced the struggling farming industry as it did in many other areas of the Dales. Much of the area is now included within the Yorkshire Dales National Park (since 2016 and the boundary review) and this will certainly help the image and development of the area. However recognition will take time. In the meantime we can all enjoy the wonderful location and less travelled paths. Many of the Walks include visits to the summit of the Dales 30 Mountains. My Favourite Walks in the Howgills and Cumbrian Dales The Lonely Howgills Whernside from Ribblehead A walk up Great Knoutberry Hill Just click on the walks below for further details. Easy A Brough Circular. Exploring the lands to the south of the historical town of Brough in Cumbria. Sedbergh & the River Rawthey. A low level exploration of the river, rugby fields and flanks of Winder mountain. Smardale Gill & Moors. Spectacular gorge near Kirkby Stephen with 2 viaducts and a river bed full of wild flowers and grasses. Moderate Ancient Castles of Mallerstang. This intriguing valley is full of history and beauty and can be started direct from Kirkby Stephen. Dick Turpin & the Source of the Eden. A 7 mile low level walk to Hell Gill in upper Mallerstang, a deep chasm at the source of the Eden. Fell Head in the Howgills. From the west the Howgills appear even more graceful and Fell Head certainly seems smooth, graceful but with steep slopes. Yarlside & Randygill Top . Two Dales 30 mountains with small, perfectly formed summits linked by wide grassy ridges. Sedbergh to Dent & back. Discover the Dales Way and upland moors between these attractive villages/towns. Lonely Wandale Hill. An unusual 5 mile walk circling a rarely visited hill at the northern end of the Howgills. Hard Nine Standards Rigg. A good path from Kirkby Stephen climbs the mountain with the 9 stone pillars on the summit. Wild Boar Fell over Mallerstang. Climb Wild Boar Fell from Mallerstang and enjoy the superb views from the large summit plateau. Continue to Swarth Fell. High Seat & Lunds Fell (Sails) A long wide grassy ridge to the east of Mallerstang containing two Dales 30 mountains. Northern Howgills. Rarely visited the long ridges of the northern Howgills offer some wonderful walking with far reaching views. The Calf via Cautely Spout. The highest waterfall in England leads to the high plateau at the south end of the Howgills. The Lonely Howgills. A longer 10 mile walk across the length of the Howgill Hills on good terrain from Sedbergh. Baugh Fell. If fellow hikers are not your bag this 10 mile circuit over this vast mountain is just the ticket! The Wilson Run . A classic 10 mile fell race open to walkers on only 1 day a year Weather Forecast SEDBERGH WEATHER Other Things to do Farfield Mill. A variety of crafts and arts are housed on 4 floors in this converted Victorian woollen mill near Sedbergh. Bookshops. A selection of book shops in Sedbergh that are favourites of locals and visitors alike. The Coast to Coast passes through Kirkby Stephen on its way from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay.
